Until now, readers of this blog had only seen photographs of religious commissions I had designed and woven for Jewish worship. However, my first years of liturgical weaving began with commissions for the Christian community. Working with church representatives, I designed and wove paraments and vestments for use in their worship service throughout the religious seasons.
Paraments refer to any fabric hangings which can be draped upon the altar, pulpit, lectern or credence table used in a church service. Most of the paraments that I wove were handwoven as a matching set of three so that one large piece was an altar cloth and two smaller pieces were used as a pulpit fall and a lectern bookmark.
Liturgical stoles are narrow strips of material worn over the shoulders of the pastor leading the church service. In many ways these are similar to the narrow ceremonial tallitot or atarot that I recently finished weaving for the religious leaders of a Jewish congregation.
The church year encompassed many seasons with each one represented by a different color which was the main criteria for the design elements. Below are some religious textiles that I had previously been commissioned to weave by churches and members of the Christian community mostly in the Memphis area. I apologize for the quality of these photographs.
The green set of paraments for Ordinary Time is visible during the time between Epiphany and Lent. The altar cloth was woven in a rep weave pattern with alternating rows of a bundle of 5/2 perle cotton strands in one row and a single strand of sewing thread in the next row.
Two liturgical stoles were woven from the same pattern. Each stole was a slightly different value of green as they were to be worn by the two pastors leading the service.
This stole for Lent, the 40 days before Easter, was woven in an 8 harness undulating twill pattern with an overshot inlay of sewing thread in the decorative gold band.
The set of paraments for Easter consisted of 5 separate textiles: the pulpit fall, lectern bookmark, altar cloth, and two separate and narrow pieces which were draped over the larger altar cloth. The pattern bands of the two narrow cloths were woven in the traditional overshot pattern known as Mary Ann Ostrander. The “Alpha” and “Omega” symbols were ultrasuede material cut and appliqued onto the handwoven fabric.
I had been commissioned to weave a ceremonial stole for use at special occasions in honor of a newly ordained Episcopal priest. The pattern on the front were several bands of a repeating Mary Ann Ostrander woven design. The wearer wanted a matching design on the back of the stole as well, since during services she often had her back to the congregation. Because there was a seam sewn at the back, I was unable to weave in the Mary Ann Ostrander pattern at this point in the fabric. Instead I made a “patch” from a woven sample and appliqued it over the seam. I also twisted a decorative cord incorporating the gold metallic yarns with perle cotton and sewed it all around the edges of the stole.
The paraments for Pentecost, 50 days after Easter, were woven in an undulating twill. The Church representatives wanted an image of a dove to be included in the altar cloth. The shape of a dove was cut and appliqued onto the handwoven cloth. The photograph of the sanctuary includes all three textiles woven in this set. The large tapestry hanging above the altar had been woven by Margaret Windeknecht in the 1960’s. Mrs. Windeknecht who passed away a year ago had been known for her publications on color and weave effect, twill, and rosepath weaving patterns.
For Advent, the four Sundays before Christmas, I was commissioned to create a set of paraments that included an image of the 4 candles representing this season. The altar cloth was woven in sections, then pieced together. the inset is done in Theo Moorman tapestry technique.
All the religious textiles shown here are lined with dupioni silk fabric in a color matching the handwoven cloth. And so the evolution of my development as a liturgical weaver continues. No matter which denomination commissions me to design and create a textile for religious worship, I always keep in mind that my work embraces the principle of hiddur mitzvah which literally means a commandment to make things beautiful while doing good. And this is a principle that all of us should keep in mind, whether we are weavers or not!
Filed under: Handwoven, Memphis | Tagged: altar cloth, Christian worship, commission, Handwoven, hiddur mitzvah, lectern bookmark, liturgical stole, liturgical weaving, Margaret Windeknecht, paraments, pulpit fall, Theo Moorman, vestments |