Like realtors whose mantra is “location, location, location”, the weavers’ mantra is “sample, sample, sample”. But as a weaver for 30 years, I’m very bad at this. I just don’t have the patience to weave a small sample to represent a larger piece, and my attention is so short, that by the time the sample is off the loom, I’ve changed my mind completely as far as pattern, colors, yarn, textures, etc. With my limited production of handwoven scarves and purses that I sell at fairs and shows, I like to design directly on the loom. This gives me creator’s license to make one of a kind items. Even though my loom might be set up to weave a dozen scarves for example, each one will be unique. When I see the weave pattern develop as I throw the shuttle, that is the time when my creative juices flow most freely. My stash of yarns is within my visual field while weaving, and my eye always seems to rove in that direction. I see nubby yarns, metallic yarns, blended yarns, exotic yarns, and I like the idea of “contrasts” in my weaving: dark/light, thick/thin, smooth/nubby, dull/shiny etc. And so I prefer designing directly on the loom rather than sampling beforehand.
But (and there’s always one of those) I also weave commissions for the religious community here in the Memphis area. And because I often work with a committee representing the church, synagogue, or clergy I have to create samples to show before getting a final design approval. And when I do, I usually go overboard, creating many more samples than necessary! Currently I am working on a commission to weave two sets of 4 tallitot, prayer shawls with a neckband used in Jewish worship, for a large synagogue. After a brief presentation with the senior rabbi, I decided to use bamboo and tencel for the warp and weft of the prayer shawls. My decision was largely based on the clergy members’ requests that they won’t get hot from wearing the tallitot. So my usual materials of a silk and wool blend yarn was out of the question. I had previously woven a tallit for a girl’s Bat Mitzvah ceremony with a bamboo warp and weft.
This prayer shawl was woven in a diamond twill pattern. The twill weave structure really lent itself to the light weight of the bamboo and this combination created an elegant drape – something that would be appropriate and attractive for a tallit.
And so I set out to order samples of both bamboo and tencel yarns in varying weights.
Sample yarns and color cards began to pour in from a number of suppliers and manufacturers. There were yarns of several different weights: 16/2, 10/2, 8/2 and 5/2. There were solid colors, variegated, mill dyed, hand dyed. It was time to get organized! No more designing on the loom – I had to create samples and decide on some successful patterns that could be presented to the design committee. All the sample cards were given their own sleeve protector which were all filed in my new loose leaf binder from Office Depot.
I threaded my looms six times to get an elegant twill weave that would also create a natural drape. Most of my samples proved to be useless – the pattern was too small, or too detailed, or did not match any of my visual preconceptions of a final design. So sampling turned out to be a good thing!
With the materials I was using- a 10/2 tencel yarn in the warp and Bambu 7 in the weft, a variety of twill weaves packed down too much and became a dense fabric. Not at all what I was looking for. With much procrastination I rethreaded my looms once again with a few overshot patterns, not my favorite weave. But it turned out that I really liked the way the fabric draped and the look of the overall designs.
Here are some of the overshot patterns that I am considering to present to the design committee for a decision on the final tallitot designs.
My instructions from the design committee were to make these prayer shawls “colorful” and “grandiose” in a design that would represent this synagogue for the twenty years that they expect these tallitot to last. Not too much pressure there, right? So as I continue this journey, I will try to post more about this project and possibly dear reader, you will watch me descend into madness…..